Mexico City : Xochimilco Market

There’s markets, and then there’s Xochimilco, which is a trip through time into pre-Spanish and early Colonial Mexico. The area is known today for its canals and flowered pleasure barges, but for thousands of years Continue reading

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Mexico City:Insects, Billygoats & the 100-Year-Old Virgin

San Juan Market & La Lagunilla

Ruth Alegria kidnaps us from our breakfast table at The Red Tree House. (Check out Ruth at  http://mexicosoulandessence.com/ .)We climb into her heavily scarred 1998 Toyota Avalon, which is clearly the victor of many street battles. Ruth takes off like a rocket through the streets of Condesa, into Roma and towards the Centro. At least, I think that’s where we are going. Mexico City has no grid I can follow, and no rules of engagement. Continue reading

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Beer-Battered Fish Taco, Ensenada Style

The best fish tacos come from Ensenada.  With this very authentic recipe, you can transport yourself right to a perfect Baja day: the wind whips in off the Pacific and coats your hair with salt spray. Blue water sparkles and trails of pelicans soar in long lines over the rocky coastline. Bouncy Mexican music comes from a little radio in the corner of the taco stand. The stand owner, or patrona, deftly flips golden fingers of deep- fried fish into a vast disca of bubbling oil and then into fresh, warm corn tortillas on little paper squares. A press of eager customers add condiments to their taste- crema, cabbage, avocado sauce, pico de gallo and hot sauce – and gobble them down before signaling for another Continue reading

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Diana Kennedy at MOLAA

Who cares about Keith Richards? or the whats-its, the Kardashians? In November, I had the  honor of meeting author Diana Kennedy, whose Mexican cookbooks I have been using for decades, and introducing  her to the audience at the Museum of Latin American Art in Long Beach who had come to hear her speak about her amazing new book, Oaxaca al Gusto. This enormous tome is not only beautiful, but fascinating, with recipes for moles, soups and common Mexican foods — also iguana, flying ants and wild plants that can be found only in the micro-climates of Oaxaca’s many regions. You can cook from it, of course, and since DK wrote it, the recipes are sound. (Now I know what to do with those pesky ants.) But it’s much more than a cookbook. It’s really a thoroughly researched textbook about a food culture so ancient and alien that it almost seems like sci-fi. No burritos here. Buy it.

From Orange Coast Magazine’s TASTE OF ORANGE COUNTY Blog by Priscilla Mayfield…

Seeing her in November at the Museum of Latin American Art in Long Beach, it was clear that at 87, Mexican cuisine doyenne Diana Kennedy has mental and physical acuity worthy of envy by those half a century younger—a real-life exemplar of the find-something-you-love-doing-and-then-do-it aphorism. Rare enough! But when that something documents huge swathes of a country’s regionally varied indigenous cuisine, the benefit to all of us quickly outdistances mere role modeldom. Continue reading

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Amor y tacos!

I don’t know where this came from, but I sure do like it. Here’s to a sane, healthy and delicious 2011!

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ROASTED JALAPENO SALSA

The hysterical heat of the bhut jolokia chile makes worrying about the heat of jalapenos pretty much irrelevant, don’t you think? Much as the threat of nuclear attack puts the bow and arrow in perspective. Jalapenos definitely have some kick, but I like them because of their lovely bright flavor, which is enhanced by grilling or dry-roasting until evenly charred and soft. They’re simple and good with a sprinkle of coarse salt and a squeeze of lemon or lime. In Ensenada, they’re often roasted and served with lemon and a little soy sauce. (Warning: if you hear weird whistling and popping noises while roasting, this is a sign that they are about to explode. Poke a hole.) I found this terrific roasted jalapeno salsa at a puesto at the fish market in Ensenada. It has an olive-green color flecked with bits of the charred skin, which makes it very attractive as one of an array of salsas. Make sure your guests don’t confuse it with the much milder Tomatillo Salsa.  It’s meant to be served as a condiment with food, not scooped up with tostadas – though that might be fun to watch. Even more fun if they think it’s pickle relish.

DEB’S ROASTED JALAPENO SALSA

(from Baja!Cooking on the Edge)

Believe it or not, this is not an overwhelmingly hot salsa, despite being made purely from roasted jalapenos. The long, slow cooking seems to sweeten and mellow the heat just a tad, but don’t be fooled- this is not for the faint-hearted.  Roasted Jalapeno Salsa is excellent on grilled meats, fish tacos,  or anything fried. Keeps for several days, refrigerated, though the heat will diminish. You will want to re-season it before use. Makes about 1 ½ cups.

10 large, firm jalapenos, washed and dried

3 large unpeeled garlic cloves

1/3 cup to ½ cup water

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1.     Line a heavy cast iron pan or comal with a sheet of foil wrap. Turn the pan on high heat and turn on the fan. Roast the jalapenos and garlic on the foil, turning every few minutes, until the jalapenos are well charred and soft. This may take as long as 20-25 minutes. Just baby them along, and don’t rush the process; they need to cook. The garlic can be removed when it has brown spots on the papery skin and has begun to soften, about 7 minutes.

2.     Or, if the grill is on. you can wrap the jalapenos and garlic in two layers of foil, and grill the packet over medium heat for 15- 20 minutes, turning often. Proceed with recipe.

3.     Cool the jalapenos. Wearing gloves, remove the stems from the jalapenos, and peel the garlic. Put 1/3 cup of water in a blender along with the garlic and salt, and pulse several times to chop the garlic. Tear the jalapenos into strips and place in the blender, along with the garlic. Pulse several more times, until the jalapenos are coarsely chopped; if necessary add water a tablespoon at a time. Don’t over-thin the sauce, and don’t puree until smooth – a little texture is nice.  Scrape into a bowl and allow to rest for 30 minutes. Taste for seasoning. Zowie!

4.     Alternatively, make the sauce in a molcajete: Grind the garlic and salt to a paste. Add the stemmed alapenos and grind to a textured puree, adding small amounts of water as necessary. Thin with more water, adjust salt (if necessary) and serve right in the molcajete.

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